The last ship's biscuit and other baking experiments

Two years ago inspired by the BBC TV series the Great British Bake Off (#GBBO for those double screening - and if you do check out the suggestions for #MaryBerryHarryPotterTitles) I baked the humble ship's biscuit.

Since then I have been undertaking an experiment on its durability. Would it really be edible to a hungry crew undertaking a circumnavigation in the great days of sail months if not years later?

The answer at four months, six months and then one year were all positive: the biscuit might be tough and lacking in flavour but it was sustaining and enduring.

So how about after two years? Well just now I ate the last of that batch and it tasted as bland as all the others had, so I guess that counts as a success.

There are no more ship's biscuits left, that tin is empty, and to be honest I'm not planning on repeating that experiment.

There are other more interesting things to bake:

But its good to know I could bake for a long offshore sail should I have to.

Museum of London Docklands

I went to the Museum of London Docklands (above) to see the Bridges Exhibition which was rather underwhelming so I went round the permanent collection, which is much better.

It tells the story of London's docks from the Romans to the present day.

Despite its name and location it isn't focussed just on the area we now call Docklands but covers the older docks that went as far as up as Aldwych, which is Saxon for old market. Incidentally the nearby road called the Strand is named after the old English word 'strand', meaning shore.

There is a beautiful 1:50 scale model of old London Bridge, or rather models as there are two, one showing the east side in 1450 and the other the west side in 1600. My eye was caught by the lovely Nonsuch House:

Now that's what I'd call having river views! Note how the gaps between the arches were quite small which must had made navigating them difficult when the tide was running strongly.

You could see a wood sculpture of Pocahontas:

Plus explore a reconstruction of the dark, winding streets of Wapping in the mid 19th century which would have been the home of many sailors:

All in all lots to see, from trade to slavery, shipping from the Romans to containers, bridges to tunnels, pleasure paddle steamers to war time blitz. If any of those interests you then its definitely worth a trip out to Docklands.

For more information, check out the press pack here.

Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red

Despite being sick this summer I consider myself very lucky for living during a time of mostly peace.

2014 is of course the hundredth anniversary of the start of World War I and as part of the commemoration of that event an installation has been commissioned for the moat of the Tower of London, and today the Queen went visiting.

Called "Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red" it comprises 888,246 hand made red ceramic poppies gradually planted one by one to make a sea of red, each representing a British fatality.

Moving and beautiful.

The Palazzo di London

The Thames in London has gone in and out of fashion.

In the 19th century it was heavily polluted but before then the river bank was graced by many grand buildings which made London look like Venice with its river side palazzos:

Many of these mansions are now lost or replaced, including the one above. This was originally a Tudor Palace built by the Duke of Somerset, and once was the London residence of King James I's wife, Anne of Denmark.

It was re-built towards the end of the 18th century with this grand river front: the great arches allowed boats and barges to enter into the building itself where there were landing places. There was a downside for this close access to river as critics said of the basement offices... "in these damp, black and comfortless recesses, the clerks of the nation grope about like moles, immersed in Tartarean gloom, where they stamp, sign, examine, indite, doze, and swear..."

Then there was the Great Stink of 1858, when the Thames was so polluted that Parliament could not but notice the horrible smell. London's expanding population required a sewage system and Joseph Bazalgette was the man for the job.

Thinking big, his team re-claimed a long stretch of the Thames, embanking it to create space for sewers, an underground railway and telegraph cables, while on top was built a road. It meant that the great building above no longer heard the lapping of waves and creak of oars but the endless roar of traffic.

But the building is still there, now called Somerset House after the site's original owner. You can just see the arches, though they are hidden by a row of trees:

Try to imagine that instead of art experts there were barges and ferries heading under this grand arch, and instead of concrete pavings there was muddy Thames water...

The area behind is due for regeneration, but the square at Somerset House already has many new uses, not least the ice rink:

And it will re-opening soon. This year seems to be rushing towards its close all too fast!

Talk on Sumara of Weymouth's Expedition to Jan Mayen

On Thursday evening I went along to the central London ship chandler of Arthur Beale Ltd for a talk by Alasdair of the Sumara of Weymouth about their trip up to Jan Mayen and ascent of the mighty Beerenberg.

I really enjoyed it: even though I'd followed the story on their blog and watched the YouTube videos hearing it all in one go certainly gave a better feel of the expedition.

It took a lot of planning, over 3 years. What struck me was the comment that maybe as many as 100 people were involved in ways big and small. To keep the wider group in touch there were newsletters and meetups.

There was useful tips about training (ice work in the Alps, some half marathons to keep the strength up and weight down, camping expeditions) and gear (the 15 kg Rocna anchor is apparently the one of choice).

Most of the talk was of the voyage north over three summers: the first and last year's tasks involved delivery of Sumara between the London estuary and the Scottish highlands.

I must admit I got rather misty eyed hearing about the sailing part:

• When Alastair talked about his transit of the Faroes I was remembering navigating between those islands in 2012
• When he talked about meeting Siggi on Aurora and encountering ice in the Denmark Strait I could picture my bunk in that yacht and sailing her between ice bergs as we escaped engine failure in the Kangerdlugssuaq Fjord
• When he talked of climbing the extinct volcano of Snaefellsjokull I remember a bumpy night's sail passing it with Tristan in Goldeneye
• And then there was Isafjordur and Reykjavík...

It was such a shame I got sick this year so couldn't go north again!

On display was the Tilman award they received for their climb of Beerenberg:

A very enjoyable evening and talk, with two more to come, so check out the calendar of events at Arthur Beale. The next one early November is about Albert Strange and then the one in December about Bill Tilman - by someone who I met at the talk who actually sailed with him!

Worth putting that in the diary.

Natural Navigation Picture Puzzle

This picture was taken looking directly across the river towards Fulham on Putney Embankment where downriver is SE.

Two questions:

1. What was the state of the tide?
2. What was the wind direction?

Buff's Covent Garden Nightmare!!

G'day all! Buff Staysail here! Buff by name and Buff by nature!

Have you noticed how the same place can mean two completely different things to two different people?

Take Covent Garden: to yours truly of course it means a good night out, with the bars and pubs, cosy corners with pretty barmaids and a glass of something cold and golden in hand. But to a square like JP it means music plus maps at Stanfords for one of his trips abroad.

But by golly last night ol' Buff got the fright of his life. I'd just had the best reunion with some of my Oz chums who'd come over - you'll remember them, Brucy, Wes, Dave-boy from my circumnavigation of Australia in a Laser.

It was a cracker of an evening and we were all tumbling out into the cool autumnal night when blow me down we saw that Covent Garden had been cut in two!!!

Some supernatural power had smashed through pillars and buildings and yet the roof was just hanging there unsupported!!!!

Jeez, that's not what I wanted to see at 2 am just after hearing Dave-boy's ghost story (my spine was nicely chilled as they say).

It was straight back to the Buff basement and I don't plan on returning soon, though I asked JP to swing by and take a photo (Ed: see above).

This is Buff Staysail, needing a stiff drink, over and out.

Where can you find the Thames Hippo?

There are two possible answers to this question.

Firstly the Totally Thames Hippo can no longer be spotted on the Thames just upriver of Vauxhall Bridge ... but where is the new wallowing hole?

Fortunately finding it is a little easier than a Where's Wally? (or even Waldo) hunt, being after all, 21 metres long and made of light wood that gleams in the sunlight.

In fact you can currently find him / her / it in St. Katharine Docks by the Tower Bridge (above).

Secondly it could mean the fossilised remains of the hippo found under Trafalgar Square, which were recently to be seen on display at the Natural History Museum in London:

I think that exhibition has closed so they have probably gone back to the British Museum.

The lure of the mighty Beerenberg

It is fair to say that 2014 has not gone to plan.

After 2012's double handed sail to the Arctic Circle and 2013's sail along the East Greenland coast I was keen to head north for a third year. I'd met some of the guys from Sail Norway at the Southampton Boat Show who were planning to charter a Challenge 72 to sail to high latitudes.

One of the high spots was to be a visit to the remote and rather wonderful Jan Mayen Island and an attempt at the mighty Beerenberg mountain.

Alas that plan failed as for some reason the insurance company and owner had concerns about sailing late in the season in icy waters. Then of course I fell sick, writing off the summer.

But I'd like to hear more from those that have reached Jan Mayen and climbed the Beerenberg, all 2,277 m of that dormant volcano, the most northerly in the world.

And there's just such a chance on Thursday as there'll be a talk at Arthur Beale’s Yacht Chandler in central London by Alasdair who went up there a few years ago. It will also be a chance to see the chandler since its refurbishment.

Tickets available by emailing using the address to be found here.

Paddle Steamer Waverley on the Thames

I might have mentioned it before, but there's a boat on the Thames that makes me grind my teeth and mutter "wrong, wrong, wrong" under my breath, namely a fake Mississippi paddle steamer, transplanted to London to keep tourists happy.

I'd be very happy to go on one of those vessels on that great river but as explained in the post on the Murray River the characteristics of each river drives the design, and over the years that creates a tradition of naval architecture.

And there's a fantastic example of a paddle steamer that looks just right for the Thames in the PS Waverley, currently in the capital. According to Wikipedia the PS Waverley is the last seagoing passenger-carrying paddle steamer in the world

As can be seen in the picture below it looks just right as it heads into the Pool of London passing the Tower:

The Thames was busy with Thames Clippers and sight-seeing boats and it was low water, making the river narrow, so it was a neat job to turn her round just by London Bridge with St. Pauls in the background:

Then it was back down river under Tower Bridge which was raised again, making a magnificent sight:

Wild London

After a World River's Day post here's one for World Animal Day of wild deer in London's Richmond Park.

River Picture Puzzle

This picture was taken in London on World Rivers Day (i.e. Sunday).

Can you work out from it which direction the river is flowing?

For extra bonus marks, if I were to say the building on the right used to be a brewery, what animal would you see if you were to look up?


Updated: Chris is correct! The direction can be worked out because in London most satellite dishes point SE to SSE, so the river is flowing north. It's the Wandle River which passes what used to be the Ram Brewery, hence:

Soon to be developed into lots and lots of apartments (e.g. in a 36 story tower block).

GRR 2014 - more Putney photos

 

Great River Race 2014 passing Putney

I tried a different watching position this year, north bank just upriver of Putney Bridge. This meant that the camera was pointing towards the sun but the boats were closer and there were some interesting light effects.

Great River Race 2014

The Great River Race has come round again and Chris from Rowing for Pleasure was spotted pulling hard through Putney on Gladys (above).

They looked to be in a good position to retain their title but we'll find out later.

Of course not all were taking it as seriously as Chris:

Some also seemed to have stopped off for refreshments:

More photos to come...

Open day at Hermitage Community Moorings

This month it's Totally Thames here in London while last weekend it was Open House 2014 and the intersection of those two was a chance to go round the Hermitage Community Moorings down by Tower Bridge.

These moorings are just down river from St. Katharine Docks in Wapping and are home to about 20 houseboats including a couple of classics.

Not all boats on display were residents. For example above is Sailing Barge Kitty which is usually based on the East Coast but had suffered engine failure. Built in 1895 she's clearly been well looked after as the brass work was gleaming:

Nearby were two other boats we visitors were allowed on-board, including the Dutch SB Volharding which is used to give opportunities to disadvantaged city children.

There was also the tug Touchstone which had an impressive electrical board and one of those old fashioned engine order telegraphs:

I couldn't help but notice how much more motion there was for these houseboats than moorings up near Putney, particularly as the Thames Clippers zoomed by.

But I guess the views must make up for it:

Hannah White's Paddle Across England for the RNLI

Water is dangerous stuff. If it doesn't suck the heat from your body it can suffocate you, and its waves can crush even the strongest vessel.

But boaters are not alone, for here in the UK we have the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) which is on standby 24/7, and the two busiest stations are right here on the Thames.

To raise funds for the RNLI Hannah White, sailor, adventurer and Olympics / Extreme Sailing announcer, is currently kayaking across England and this afternoon stopped over in Putney.

It was a short stop to say hello to the support team and get a quick boost:

Then it was on downstream towards Westminster:

You can contribute by heading over to the JustGiving web site here.

Good luck Hannah!

Classic Yachts at St. Katharine Docks

I was a bit late to get to St. Katharine Docks to see the Classic Yachts but there were some still there - plus a rather well known rowing boat.