Saturday, September 24, 2016

Victualling in Greenland

There are no marinas in Scoresby Sound - and that's definitely a good thing. We saw more muskox than other boats, and I hope it remains unspoilt for as long as possible.

But how to do you victual the boat if there are no marinas with fresh water on tap and nearby supermarkets?

It turned out that watering is relatively easy: find a stream that is running (a surprising number were dry) then run the boat aground as near as possible.

It helps that there is usually a steep drop-off at the coastline so you can get even a schooner like Opal (above) close in relatively easily. Its worth checking for large underwater rocks to avoid a clunk! as the boat bounces off one and go for the type of beach here where there will just be a gentle crunch!.

Then lower a pipe into the fresh waters and start the pump and lo and behold the fresh water tanks are full again.

Food is trickier, but a top tip is to talk to the local Inuit hunters to see what they have on offer. We were offered this chunk of very freshly shot muskox:
Being so fresh it was left to hang for a few days until nicely matured and then made some superb appetisers and dinners, including a fab spag bog.

While there are no marinas there are plenty of anchorages and if you know where to look some special places where you can set your mooring lines into shackles attached to one of those 1,800m high cliffs:
Worth having those fenders at the ready to moor up to The Wall and have a whisky and pancake party!

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